Hi, I'm Stefan and I create educating and entertaining videos for you which feature 3D printing, CNC, CAD, Lasers, Arduino and much more tec stuff!
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why is the base such a weird shape, and why does it do it in such a weird order?
I feel that it's not quite practical at the moment, but environmentally it's very much so worth it
8:05 you would need a super beefy, purpose built shredder, like... defasts.info/title/video/fq1mo53QgWjcys0.html
6:51 on my screen it actually looks very close to olive drab. so since it varies, i would have called it olive camo.
Wow! Very nice!!! I've always wondered about this, but you saved me time. Thank you!
Why don't you try to vacuum after putting the 3d parts in Salt to remove all the air gaps
What is the maximum temperature with this setup? 275C? 300? 300+?
Any suggestions how I would find the resolution in my Prusa slicer?
Genius!
that was heavily SE advirtised, Stefan sorry bro this time is not good
Nur als Info, 10:20 3Djake ist von Österreich.
Jesus it took him almost 8 minutes before he starts the test! start here 07:48 and thank me later
I haven't really used threads in 3D printing, but the inserts I use have a coarse thread on the outside with the same knurling at the top.
Interchangeable print heads - I really think this is where we need to be going with things. 'Should really have an EMO button. Chill review... :)
Prusament PLA sucks lol
My understanding that petg with zero fan cooling is significantly stronger than with even the smallest amount of cooling, granted print quality suffers a bit.
Mein persönliches Highlight war es, als bei 36:25 eine Schicht Filament auf die andere gelegt wurde
On my Ender 3, I have some success printing PETG except when printing longer time frame prints. The extrusion stops and the extruder starts skipping. Could this be the reason?
10:19 - cries in Brexit :'(
I really don't think salt is the optimum substance for this experiment at all. It's quite reactive, especially at elevated temperatures and this was probably the reason why the ABS appeared the way it did at 230C. I can't see why talc wouldn't be more ideal provided it has nothing added to it. It's pretty inert and is already very fine. Also you could dip the PLA models in a concentrated acetone solution of ABS and let it evaporate to leave a thin coating of ABS to protect the surface.
Got the Longer version of the U30 after the video, only upgrade I'll do is a geared extruder
How to set 210% for prusaslicer?
I'm working on a 3d printed rocket I would love to win some filament
What's it like with wear using carbon nylon ?
i prefer resin prints over FDM prints at the moment. Resins prints seem just to be more reliable while printing. I really love the details and sharp edges, even when printing mechanical parts. And i definitively prefer the cleanup as compared to the extensive sanding you have to do on fdm prints
Honestly, it kinda looks like weed eater wire.
I have the ender 3 pro, will this copperhead heat break fit on it just as on the normal ender 3?
Almost had an epilleptic seizure after watching this.... Please put some warning message before the start of this video....🤢
Why not cut the bowden tube so it won't retract. This is one of the first upgrades that everyone with an Ender 3 does. Also you can replace the part of the bowden tube in the end with one of better material. This solves all clogging problems for me; noted that I don't need high flow rates.
44:00 when it starts the roof I was cheering then it lost it rip
what about a couple layers of sheetrock (drywall) instead of concrete? still very rigid, but not as much as concrete; so it might help absorb some of the vibrations. (one layer, i would worry that it might eventually break. instead, i would glue two layers together.) you can buy sheet rock in 2x2' and 4x4' pieces, and a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade is great for cutting it.
G1? Why not use G2 and G3? Arc welder does this very well, I had to do some firmware changes though.
Yeah, it looks difficult to print alright... Well done.
There's definitely something ... sexy about it. ^^'
$500 for equipment to recycle cheap plastic. Sounds like the Green New Deal boondoggle.
High quality video bro, subscribe immediately. Btw im using Ender 5 Plus and using cheap chinese nozzle because a fancy good nozzles are relatively expensive, id rather change my cheap nozzle every 1kg filament than using expensive nozzles. I maybe am cheap but hey, it works.
So I could put shredded up hemp in there?
I hope this becomes a thing! This is so important! Thank you for doing this.
This voice remindes me of stefan langer
Great video Stefan! I learned a new process and also some more capabilities of Fusion. Thanks for staying with it.
I know this is a bit old, but for the hole dimension problem I've found the best way to solve it in Cura is the horizontal expansion setting. Once you tune this setting, then all of your holes will be dimensionally accurate instead of requiring you to offset them in CAD.
Should have printed that test hook as a solid part. It would have been VERY strong. I tested Siraya Tech Fast, both gray and yellowish green and that resin is very resilient for outdoor use. I hung parts outside in direct sunlight and rain for six months over the summer and the parts were unaffected. No surface discoloring or chalky deposits. They looked new. They didn't lose strength and may have become stronger as sunlight UV cross linked the polymer. The part was a dog bone with a central dimension of 5mmX5mm. There were holes on the end for 550 pound test paracord. I was unable to create a tension failure with over 100kg of tensile force. I couldn't snap these parts by bending them in my fingers. The tiny solid parts are incredibly durable, UV resistant and impervious to the elements. The yellow PVC insulation faded on the wire I used to hang the samples outside for 6 months, but the parts didn't fade at all.
Have you tried alumina (used as a blasting/polish)? It's super fine, and not very reactive.
I dond understand. Red lieber in deiner verhassten Muttersprache. Deshalb bist du kein Nazi.
The most comprehensive show available on these sujects Stefan. Incredible, thanks for sharing. Great product, but I believe I'll opt for separate.
I'm printing a pi N64.... I need the files for N64 control to print case in same resin...
Bravo!
How can I model a tapered angle thread ?
I have expensive spool of PA CF too and it is the biggest material disapointment for me. It is shitty material and very prone to creep
I would print an RC differential. Looks promising. Cheers.
@CNCKitchen : Would a E3D Volcano benefit from this type of heat break?
Does it still work?
8:22 das passiert wenn man ein Loch mit einem Krummen, minderwertigen Bohrer oder zu viel druck bohrt und es nicht mit einer Reibale nachbearbeitetet 12:40 ne das ist auch eine Folge der Reibahle Der Spitzenwinkel eines Spiralbohrers beträgt 118° der Anschnitt der Reibahle hat aber idr. 60°
You should try Starch (Stärke). It is used for making the forms for haribo gummybears etc. they get a very smooth surface and it melts at 200°. So this is already very fine, holds the form very well, cheap, heatrestistant. Maybe another video? :)
Truly nice, can you elaborate on the pre-printing brush wipe mechanism shown in the beginning of the video?
Would you reccomend this machine for milling Anker stones?
obviously a good idea... but only truly worth it if you have a lot of waste in your prints...
wasachsoda...1kg 3,99 bei müll..
Can you use filament as trimmer wire
I'm not sure if only comparing one brand of PLA+ really tells us anything...
Is there anyway to recycle rubber into something usable for a 3d printing?
The mode of nozzle wear your tests using 1kg of material suggest ruby tipped brass nozzles may have even better potential than one might have expected
I saw uncle Jessie's video on smoothing prints with photo polymer resin, and that got me thinking. Most Resins available don't deflect much with heat. What if you make a thin coating with resin, or even epoxy, before annealing?
...im @0:38 and almost throwing money at the screen this looks amazing.
Please do more about recycling!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hexagons are the bestagons
I'd really be interested in self tapping screws for plastic. The place I work at uses them a lot in commercial products, but I have no idea how they compare to other solutions for 3D printing. You can get them from McMaster Carr: www.mcmaster.com/screws/tapping-wood-and-drywall-screws/tapping-screws-for-plastic/ along with plenty other vendors
The website is no longer active..
Ärgerlich! Ich verstehe nur die Hälfte! Dass gute Videos immer auf Englisch sein müssen,...und NEIN - ich kann es NICHT mehr lernen...habe es 7 Jahre lang versucht!
Hey Stephan, just wanna ask you something to see what do you think abou it. I've being trying to "put" a metallic mesh in between the layers of a printing but haven't being success jet. Imagine a square, with a hole in the middle and try to cover that hole with the mesh... The problem i'm having is that when the printer is laying filament on the mesh, it doesn't stick at all on it and then the whole thing just jumps and is all a mess... What do you think about it? it can be possible? is there any workarround to do so, or some "trick" maybe? Thanks in advance and keep the amazing work. Thanks.
to be honest with a machine like this I would expect the main usage to be CNC milling, with laser and 3d printing as a way to save footprint as a versatile household tool. You could buy a comparable performance and separate 3d printer and laser engraver for less than the total for this one machine. But, a cnc mill with comparable performance to this will be a similar price point. It looks like they still have more work to do to really tick all the boxes for this sort of product (what it does is already achievable with a diy machine, but the real draw is that the thing is all the legwork is done right out of the box) I would really like to see some sort of dust/smoke extraction and an e-stop to be included with it by default, not as extra additions. Other things like laser air assist, enclosure, auto-leveling can be add-ons I really think something very much like this will be relatively common in households with "handy" people in the next few decades
BURADAN BU VİDEONUN TÜRKÇE ALT YAZISINI YAPAN ARKADAŞIN TAŞŞAKLARINA KURBAN!
Finally someone explained why I would sometimes get Over Extrusion Bulges in certain spots on certain prints. I usually get them in line with holes in the print. Like screw holes and such. Now I know what to tweak to try and get rid of them. Thanks 👍 I use a Copperhead on the Core XY printer I built. I love it. Its a great hotend. Definitely been thinking of putting one on my Ender3. I have no problem suggesting it to others. 😉
Bit disappointing to not see the metal 3D printing being demonstrated
Thank you for tips. You got my like :)
Wenn du das her lesen kannst ist meine Theorie war
What software did you use to generate those graphs? I have some analisis to do myself and excel's grafs are not designed to this.
Wonderful video, thank you for all your hard work! Some other thoughts: I'm curious to find the effect of the porous layer on the specimen's ultimate strength. A change in surface finish has an effect on the endurance limit for rotating members (S-N diagrams & endurance limit modifiers), but I'd bet it changes the material property on the exterior of the part. I'm assuming a skinny part (2mmx5mm CSA) would be more effected by the finish than a wider one (5mmx5mm CSA) by ratio of area effected vs homogeneous material. There also seems to be a difference in how much the exterior is effected: the PLA has a thicker porous exterior (13:31) compared to ABS (16:02). Maybe it's because salt is more chemically inert with ABS at those temps?
ну что сказать - красавчик, молодец.
I wonder how much of the strengthening is actually from the NaCl or due to the re-melting of the original material. The re-melting is a kind of annealing, If cooled slowly it could be reorganizing the atoms in the material, potentially removing internal stress/strains to toughen it up.