Bi-Metallic Heat Breaks - A (R)Evolution?!

CNC Kitchen

138 Tsd. aufrufe15

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    A bi-metal heat break, consisting of copper threads and surgical stainless steel tubing is a pretty interesting concept that can potentially add quite some performance to your 3D printer. Let me show you how I was able to more than double the extrusion capability of my Ender-3 what happened when I first cheaped out and bought a knock-off part and how I was pleasantly surprised when I spent the money and got the genuine one from SliceEngineering! Let’s find out more!
    GCode and ANSYS Simulation model are available on my website: www.cnckitchen.com/blog/testing-bimetallic-heat-breaks
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    🛒 Equipment used in this video:
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    Generic BiMetal Heat Break on AMAZON (Affiliate Link): geni.us/bS8B
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    Retraction Test from 3DOptimizr (NOT an affiliate): 3doptimizer.com/
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    Chapters
    00:00 Introduction
    01:23 What's a Heat Break?
    04:20 Benchmarking the Ender-3 Pro
    07:42 Benchmarking a Generic BiMetal Heat Break
    09:50 Benchmarking a the Copperhead Heat Break
    11:27 Summary
    13:27 Squarespace Promo
    #3Dprinting #heatBreak #science
    DISCLAIMER: This video was sponsored by Squarespace.

    Am Vor 9 Tage

    KOMMENTARE

    1. CNC Kitchen

      Would you prefer changing just the Heat Break or would you rather replace the whole Hotend? Don't forget to like & subscribe and share this video on Facebook, Reddit, Twitter, and other platforms!

      1. Bretware 7

        I OEM sink is not efficient, neither is the fan cover, need to test the cheap ones with better air flow. It only make sense to keep the creality hotend if you can improve it cheaply, if not replace it.

      2. veritanuda

        OK I get it is not a must have mod but I am curious about the idea of printing at higher tempretures. My question would be if you have already PTFE lined the hot end to reduce drag would this heat-break just improve that? In which case seems like a no brainer to use this bi-metalic heat break as your speeds should not only get faster but hotter too.

      3. SquidCaps

        Changing from stock extruder assembly to full metal dual axis has even more effect on retractions... and should really be used for these kind of tests. With the stock heatbreak, my retractions are at 4mm. With the stock plastic i had 8mm and with full metal one axis i had 6-7mm.

      4. bluephreakr

        @Beef Ingot You might be interested in Printermods' X-Change tooling system then. A chassis which acccepts an assembly carriage as a replaceable unit, this solution means you can have specialized hot-ends per unit, which while vastly more costly, allows for rapid changing of tooling with some manual effort.

      5. Daniel Allen

        @Karl Hunt Not worth it. I have one too and it is well tuned as is. Better go get another printer to tune.

    2. Dom 21

      Bravissimo! Saluti dall' Italia

    3. Marlon lacert

      Keep up the good work! Happens to be the current problem I am looking at to improve my printer! Keep up the good fight!

    4. Csongor Boros

      7:08 - 7:28 was single handedly the most useful tip in my 2 year of printing. Thank you!

    5. CrimFerret

      It sounds like getting this, a good dual gear extruder, and upgrading to Capricorn tubing would give a real benefit. As near as I can tell, this essentially converts the bowden hot end to a metal hot end. No offense to Slice engineering, but the price on that is a little ridiculous. You might as well just buy a metal hot end.

    6. John Ecker

      Makergear just doesn't have a metal connection between the hot and cold end. Just a small gap.

    7. Skillful Man

      interesting

    8. trung nguyen

      The yummy mouth explicitly wish because celsius immunochemically shock concerning a nosy plaster. giant, lumpy invoice

    9. Ira Borton

      I put in a bimetal heat break and upgraded heatsink in my direct drive extruder with volcano hot end. I can now print other exotic filaments on a mid range printer at up to 270C temp.

    10. Sue3DDesigns

      Very nice review. Ordered new ones for all my printers. Thank you.

    11. triffid0hunter

      Arcol was making bimetallic aluminium/SS hotends a /decade/ ago - it's sad that it's taken this long for folks to realise that it's actually a good idea..

    12. Alexis Trompe

      I got a titanium one from mellow store, works wonderful but had to put a bit of thermal grease due to heat creep.

    13. Practical Printing

      You noted early on about how much faster your Mk3s could print than the ender 3 when you were printing face shields. I would be curious to see if the Bi-metal hotend makes as much difference on that compared to the stock E3D V6 heatbreak.

    14. Zachary 3D Prints

      Great Video Stephan, Really interesting about this. I know what to do now...

    15. Caleb

      I currently run a stock bowden setup on my anycubic predator and i wanted to print nylon so this is extremely helpful

    16. Ranger Of The Order

      Could you take a look at printing HDPE plastic?

    17. Renato Gallo

      where can I find hotends that already mount this puppy for my ender 3 v2 ?

    18. Ajay Sudhera

      Can we see the extrution chart of the original heatbreak!

    19. fozbstudios

      Would this work well with larger nozzles? Like a mini volcano?

    20. DemonIIXII

      question... if i am printing PLA, .4mm, with stock nozzle, 200c, why not just increase the heat slightly? does this only really impact for larger nozzles? the largest ive done is .6mm and i printed fine by increasing my heat to 210-215.

    21. Stuart Coutts

      What did you say the finish was... tungsten sulphate?

    22. Rainer Schindler

      Very nice Video! I'd be interested, in the change of low rate of the Prusa in comparison of the Ender.

    23. R. T.

      Change heatbreak, or change full print head ? I do have a few quality V6 clones around, meant to replace my V5 clone (Anycubic i3 Mega-S), that are still not installed. So goes for bimetallic heatbreaks: that's something I'd like to test, though there are almost no chance that such an item exists for that printer series (maybe on custom order). Though, I also managed to find an all-metal titanium heatbreak for that printer (finding one was a PITA ; thanks to the german shop which makes them !), and that's what I'm currently testing these days. I do quite a lot of PET/PETG and ABS, + nylon is a material that could be useful for some things. In that regard, an all-metal heatbreak makes sense. For now, early results are promising, leading to the same base facts you noticed on Bowden systems with a bi-metallic all-metal heatbreak. Mainly better extrusion and shorter retractions : it went from 2.6-2.8mm with PTFE lining to less than 2mm with all-metal. To me, right now, changing heatbreak is a better option.

    24. Slice Engineering

      It appears the DEfasts overlords didn't like us pointing people to our website to get more information, and removed our previous comment and related replies. We're happy to answer any questions here or via our website.

      1. Dwight McLeish Jr

        @Slice Engineering Does it protrude like the heat break in the video? I was wondering if he purchased the correct version or if it was installed incorrectly.

      2. Slice Engineering

        @Chris Mawson the Copperhead C-E Heat Break is the direct replacement for the Ender 3 Pro

      3. Chris Mawson

        Which model of the heatbreak is the direct replacement for the Ender 3 Pro?

    25. Lozoot2

      Something I've read before that may explain that slightly worse performance with the genuine part - the two screws that hold the heater block to the cold end are supposedly only there for aligning before tightening the grub screw, and should be removed because, since they're metal, they end up conducting heat to the heatsink. Notice how, because of the shorter heat break on the knockoff, you didn't use the screws? I'm willing to bet you'll see some improvement if you pull those screws out on the genuine part!

    26. PureRushXevus

      I ordered a bi-metal heatbreak for my ender 3 pro from trianglelab, in order to print PETG.. Still hasn't arrived, due to issues with shipping, been waiting like 3 months :/ In the pictures, it looks a lot like the knockoff you bought. did you try that one with the tuned retraction settings you did on the genuine heatbreak?

    27. Kai Sörensen

      Hotend gap NO MORE

    28. JhonnyTheJeccer

      Liebe kommentarsektion: willkommen in der brd

    29. Simply Human

      Ok, here is million dollar idea... The thermal break should be made of CERAMIC many ceramics do not conduct heat.

      1. Yuri Polak

        like Mellow NF Zone?

    30. Doug Moody

      VERY impressed with your excellent summary of this part. I wasn't even aware of what a heat break was. Additionally, your excellent animations (which I know took a lot of your time) explained to me what was happening. All this, and it appears English isn't your native language, so you, sir, are truly a gifted teacher.

    31. Jason Walker

      Gibts das auch in Deutsch?

    32. Robbin Koot

      You said the cheaper ones are bad, but you should really try like the dragon hotend from triangle labs. They make quality parts for a good price

    33. Kketansa Art

      My heat break;s hole is completely closed. It is not because of the molten filament. I guess there is a ring with teeth inside the heat break that holds the tube. This ring got pushed to the bottom nd closed the hole completely. dont know how to extract it..

    34. R Mi

      I’m Stefan. Goooootennnntagggggg 😂

    35. Junky228

      FYI in the Affiliate Links in the description, it's spelled Elgato, not Elgatoo. Maybe the Elegoo printers got you mixed up :P

    36. danlatu

      Thank you for making this! I cant wait to try this.

    37. chen fla

      My copperhead heat-break doesn’t protrude on Ender 3 like yours. Probably you bought the wrong model.

      1. chen fla

        @Dwight McLeish Jr mine is C-E and printer is ender 3 pro. There is a chart you can look up on the slice engineer website.

      2. Dwight McLeish Jr

        Which version did you order?

    38. inund8

      Soo not E3D V6 compatible?

    39. petrokemikal

      But would this affect printing with abrasive materials if there is copper involved ?

      1. Sebastian Fernández

        Filament is not in contact with copper at anytime

    40. Anyone700

      It is not far to compare a part that is more that long enough with one that is not long enough. The conclusion that knock off heatbreaks are bad is invalid. Instead the conclusion should be that short heat breaks have poor retraction performance in the ender 3. Your videos are usually very thorough, it is very strange to hear you spreading dimensional tolerance hearsay. The difference is clearly in the metrology, the key difference being that the slice one is much less likely to fall apart. If The clone was long enough I have no doubt that it would have outperformed the slice version until it fell apart as many of them do. However the grub screw heatbreaks are much less likely to fail due to that issue.

    41. suporty boiii

      Are u German?

    42. Gavin Stewart

      Been very interested in moving to a bimetal heatbreak as well as a better heaterblock. Wondering if you have any videos on the quality of biqu/bigtreetech. Thanks much!

    43. santiago restrepo

      Great video, would you share the Gcode for the retraction test? thank you in advance

    44. Gabriel Sanchez

      it would be interesting to hear your impressions on the triangle lab new dragon hotend v2

    45. Alex Alfons

      does this work for prusa mk3s too? I also don't have super uniform flow rate when printing

    46. Alex Alfons

      wouldn't lengthening the hot zone a bit give a more constant flowrate?, is there another way around heat creep?

    47. excited box

      for about $2-3 you can get ceramic tubes which are the lowest possible heat transfer. You could most likely replace the metal tube and get practically 0 heat transfer.

    48. BigTwitchy

      Perfektes Timing - da ich an meinem Endergebnis 5 Pro demnächst auf Direct-Drive umstelle, kann ich gleichzeitig auch auf ein Bi-Metall Heat-Break umsteigen. Vielen Dank!

    49. francesco pelosi

      Hi CNC Kitchen, i had the same heat creep problem on my e3. i think that is due to poor air flow through the fins on the heat sink, so i designed a new fan shroud and solved the problem. the heatbreak i used is similar to your shorter one

    50. Joshua Waite

      do you reckon a glass heatbreak would work? just ordinary glass? they do get about 1W/MK, and should be able to hold up the heat. I guess the main drawback is the fragility.

    51. Pavel Mayorov

      9:23 - where should be one more line on the graph. Clean everything as you just did, install new standard heat break - guess, it also gives some improvement?

    52. macelius

      This looks like it will help with my speed bottleneck with the v6.

    53. BlackDread

      I like that you added the images of the thermal simulation! Nice job!

      1. CNC Kitchen

        Glad you like it! Thinking about dedicating a separate video to the simulation part.

    54. JDccc26

      I replaced the entire hot end and extruder. Running a Bondtech DDX with a Copperhead on both of my CR-10S Pro V2's. One has a 0.6 and the other, a 0.8 mm nozzle.

    55. Green Gorilla

      That hair!!!! Maybe next video, 3d print some scissors. ;) thanks for the content. Great video as usual. Keep it up.

    56. Sathya Kumar

      Thank you @cnckitchen for the detailed testing and information about the Bi Metal heat break.

    57. Andri Már

      Thank you for this video, knowing this could make things much easier in the future with my Ender 3. I just experienced many days of jamming after 1.5 hours with 245°C on my Ender 3, the solution was that the original heat sink has thicker fins than the aftermarket I bought (aftermarket but still a good company, just not original). Everything was the same and I was going insane on troubleshooting. If I would've had this heat break I would possibly not have experienced my problems, if/when my original heatsink will break then I know I have to have this product to successfully print with PETG temperatures. Thanks again!

    58. TrickyNekro ́s Electronics Lab

      I got a cloned volcano, seems like a very fitting candidate!

    59. J.G

      i would support you a haircut :)

    60. Vladimir Olegovich

      Can bi-metallic heatbreak magically solve the problems of cheap i3 bowden printers? Buy it to try it. If not - your heatbreak not genuine and too cheap.

    61. Krmpfpks

      What a coincidence! I tested a cheap bi-metal heat break just two days ago (an all metal V6 clone). Clogged hotend approx 14 hours into the first larger print. After disassembling the hotend the heatbreak looked ok, but filament would just not fit through. On closer inspection I saw that the inner tube wasn't actual a tube but a rolled up metal sheet with a slit. That slit delaminated (I guess from the temperature gradient) from the wall and one end of the metal sheet pointed inwards. Filament no longer flowed. Went back to my titanium heat break I had no issues with.

    62. WF3D

      Stefan you again went above and beyond with testing and research! Well done

    63. mrawesomelemons

      Could you cover the Mellow Nf V6? That is ceramic and looks crazy! Also, to fix the rotating heatbreak you can assemble the hotend and tighten the nozzle.

    64. Hecho en Chillán

      Great insights, Stefan! I've been printing a lot with a 0.6 nozzle lately and your extrusion investigation is something I should do for a new-to-me PLA that's working on my stock CR10 but problematic with the Ender 3. Thanks for also highlighting PrusaSlicer's volumetric flow view to help understand potential for that bulging effect 👌🏻Despite what one thinks of the hardware, there's value for everyone when it comes to showing troubleshooting and slicer exploits. Keep it up!

    65. David Mulligan

      Stefan, you mention there are problems with titanium all metal heat breaks. Please elaborate. I would also love to see a video which compares the performance, especially using low temperature PLAs which tend to get sticky and jam in steel heat breaks. So many people on the forums tend to push titanium as the solution.

      1. Clint StLaurent

        Agreed. This is barely different than the MicroSwiss titanium upgrade I’ve used for years. Doesn’t seem like anything new to me.

    66. ChronOJohnPrivat

      I use a titan Heatbreak made RS-Präzesion. Works gream, and is a german company as well

    67. Zappyguy111

      No Seeback Effect?

    68. Sergei Petrov

      Replaced the factory Ender3pro Hot End's hit block with a cheap Chinese clone of an aluminum volcano. And I've bought cheap nozzles of all sizes. The heater, thermistor and circuit breaker remain unchanged. I've never had such short retract.

    69. MBAgeeJr68

      Another excellent video! BTW, is it just me or is it that, as Thomas is having less and less hair, Stefan is having more and more! 🤣

    70. Dakota Pahel-Short

      Can you look into the mellow's new hotend/heatbreak? They have make a ceramic/copper heatbreak which looks absurdly promising. It's like 40 or 50 dollars on aliexpress for the hotend and 18 for the heatbreak. It's so much cheaper and seems to truly be a unique design and not a low quality clone. So I'm Uber curious but don't have the time I use to in order to try it out.

    71. licensetodrive

      Being able to increase the printing speed with one of these installed is good, but does that mean bridges come out worse with filaments like PLA because the cooling fan is already at maximum speed?

      1. ReDHeaDSg1

        Then you have bad cooling fan setup if you are already running at 100% speed for PLA.

    72. U Fre

      Und warum alles in englisch ?? Das verstehe einer ...

    73. George Freitas

      very good, thanks for the tips. you have the dimensions of the piece to address 5 ... I will make one.

    74. Banex

      One Russian youtuber, Dmitry Sorkin, about a year ago tested such a heatbreack from Triangle Lab on an E3D V6 (from aliexpress, a good company) and the result ... Not bad, but plastic leaked very slightly from the top in a few hours of printing. It did not affect anything, but it turned out unpleasant.

    75. zeuss194

      add that heat brake with that high speed nozzle (the one with 3 machined hole inside) to see how fast you can print

    76. rocksntwigs

      I had no idea there was a calibration print for retraction. I've been wanting to learn how to do calibration tests for my printer to fix the weird issues I have. It would be super cool if you could do a video talking about the different types of tests and prints you use to calibrate and test your printers. I'd love to know what you do to get such clean looking prints.

    77. wordreet

      Interesting stuff Stefan, thanx.

    78. Michael Rinkle

      Have the microswiss all metal hotend on an old Wanhao i3 (heavily modded). I was thinking of throwing another heater in the hot block, it seems to struggle at higher print speeds with the Inland filaments and also if the part cooling 40mm delta fan comes on while its extruding, the temp drops as much as 5 deg. Also tried a 1.2mm nozzle, could at best print about 50% speed compared to the 0.4mm nozzle. Parts still came out much stronger and heavier than a 0.4, and were about 40% faster print time, but also used quite a lot more filament. I will try a few prints with the 0.6/0.8mm nozzles I have. Might be better suited for the prototyping I do.

    79. JAYTEE

      Excellent coverage Stefan, I don't need it but I'm glad to know it exists. Cheers, JAYTEE

    80. Anthony Rich

      I like big nozzles and I cannot lie. Sorry, had to be said. :) Anyway, interesting video, Stefan, I had not considered using an all-metal heat break to increase flow rate. Guess I'll be checking out Slice Engineering now to see what I can find to fit my delta...

    81. Dragos Batca

      Try out and compare it with the Mellow Nf-zone. I think you will find it interesting

    82. TheShorterboy

      So it transforms a crappy teflon tube setup to be a bimetallic all metal hotend

    83. PaxDrakonis

      Interesting video Stefan! I got a Titanium V6 heatbreak for my MK3S to avoid PLA jamming because of the custom 'notch' the standard heatbreak uses for the MMU2. You mentioned known downsides for a titanium heatbreak, what were you referring to?

    84. Seb S

      Thank you Stefan, as I see you missed your last haircut before lockdown as well ;-)

      1. CNC Kitchen

        You are right! That hair is almost 8 months in the making.

    85. A A

      What about the electrochemical reactions? Won't there be corrosion between the two different metals?

    86. Kotzikacki

      "surgical stainless steel tubing" so essentially just stainless steel

    87. AllanScheSar

      11:11 Your Retraction test looks interesting. How do you set up different retraction settings into one part? And another question why looks this rectangulars so strange on the left side?

    88. Vacuum23rus

      Stefan, for your method to work more accurately, you need to make retracts, at least every 10 mm

    89. Coltography

      so well done man, your presentation of all the data leaves me feeling spoiled lol

    90. TheWobblyEmily

      Honestly I think that the main reason for that small extrusion rate on the ender 3 is because the ptfe tube is making the length of the heated section (melt zone) half as much as it normally is in an all metal hotend. v6 lite also has reduced extrusion rate. this one is basically just the nozzle as the heating zone.

    91. TheWobblyEmily

      awesome! new video! but I wish you tested the trianglelab ones instead of the no-name ones! i heard trianglelab ones are great! because even normal steel all metal heartbreaks are always unstable from no-name brands! tho they're only 10$ cheaper so yeah you might as well just get the genuine and also support the engineers. but also i'm a little confused. what does bowden have to do with high temps? I personally print polycarbonate on my bowden printer. it works quiet well. heck even TPU doesn't work bad. I can print 95a TPU or ones a bit below it at an okay speeds (45mm/s) with my bmg with retractions and linear advance. I do wish you also compared it to a steel or titanium heatbraek. I have a titanium heatbreak on mine and i love it! I get 12mm/s extrusion rate but in my own testing which I posted somewhere and it got lost i think the cold zone temp was reduced by a noticable amount (tho nothing too big)

    92. Joel Hopper

      Would this help a direct drive Ender 3 as much as it helped the Bowden setup? Great video. Love the channel.

    93. Nathan L.

      Can I get one of these for the Hemera hotend? Might be a good thing E3d titanium Hemera heatbrakes have been OOS for months!

      1. CNC Kitchen

        I'm quite sure there isn't one for the Hemera.

    94. Anthony Leggio

      Just bought one of these on a whim. I want to print some PC and Just finished my enclosure build so excited!

    95. al-Zughal Ch.

      Personally I don't find this useful. For 20 dollars you can get a SuperVolcano clone from china and I am currently 7 of these, never had a problem.

    96. Justin Shirley

      6:04 3d printer 💩's

    97. jaskaran singh

      Hi thanks for info Love from India🇮🇳 Can u help me with retractions, how you did your retraction test ??

    98. The Bootloader

      These copper/stainless heatbreaks are great. I installed a knockoff one from AliExpress on my Ender 3 Pro and I noticed a vast improvement in print speed. I am really annoyed that manufacturers spend energy and money on useless upgrades such as fancy TFT color LCD screens on the printers, instead of doing useful upgrades like these from the factory.

    99. Fred Flintstone

      Brigham, practice being a barnacle.

    100. Gabriel Soria

      I always heat the block before i take out the nozzle/heat brake, so much easier if your carful ;-)